Hello from Tuscany! Today, I’ll share my journey to the little town of Bolgheri.
At first glance, there’s nothing particularly remarkable about it. Not all trains stop at this station, and there isn’t even a proper station building. Just a schedule board and a sign: Bolgheri. But let’s dig deeper…
In the wine world, this word carries significant weight. Italians, as I’ve mentioned before, are big on traditions. They like things done a certain way, even if it seems illogical. If, in Tuscany, it’s been historically established to make wines from Sangiovese grapes, then that’s how it’s done. End of story. Okay, they allow some deviations, adding 10-15% of other grape varieties for diversity. If everything’s by the book, wines of the highest quality will bear the abbreviation DOC (DOCG) – Denominazione di Origine Controllata, meaning controlled by origin, and thus quality (DOCG – e Garantita, “guaranteed,” is the highest level in the Italian classification). Slightly lower in quality are the IGT wines – Indicazione Geografica Tipica, “typical wines for the region,” with less quality control and assurance, usually cheaper than DOC/DOCG. The lowest tier, Vino da Tavola, has table wines. Virtually no control, suitable for a movie night but not for guests. That’s a mini-tour for the average reader who’s never considered the quality and pricing of Italian wines.
Let’s go back to Bolgheri and the “Super Tuscans” wines.
Yesterday, I understood that Chianti is not just a simple wine that people worldwide drink in the evenings. There are specimens worthy of being opened after a dozen years to await the evolution of the wine. But for the most part, Chianti is just wine, and there’s plenty in Tuscany.
One day, the trend bored Marquis Mario Incisa della Rochetta. He wanted to present something different to the world and, in 1968, created a high-quality, interesting “product”—Sassicaia, a Bordeaux blend consisting of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Around the same time, San Felice made Vigorello, and Marquis Piero Antinori introduced Tignanello to the world.
“Oh God, these are French grape varieties,” no matter how good the wine was, they immediately dubbed them “table wine”. In the eyes of the whole world and Italians, it must have looked like “lower-quality wine.” Fortunately, the Middle Ages are behind us, and people and wine critics gradually (as the Italians say, “piano, piano”) began to appreciate these wines. Imagine when next to prestigious DOCG wines on the wine boutique shelf, there’s a bottle with the label “table wine,” but it’s several times more expensive. Apparently, it’s not just table wine, right? Meanwhile, having wines made from international varieties became a trend, and other “rebels” followed suit, valuing wine quality over the coveted abbreviation – DOC. These “table” wines are called “Super Tuscans.”
But chaos reigns in these “Super Tuscans”: they are, as the label says, table wines, but they are drunk and admired worldwide! In short, it took only 40 years to decide to organize and separate them from the general masses and give them the IGT status. It’s late; everyone already knows their idols face-to-face. But now, roughly speaking, if you see an Italian wine labeled IGT, and it’s not just “IGT Piedmont” or “IGT Umbria,” but with a name like “Sassicaia” (you’re unlikely to confuse it), plus on the back label, among the ingredients, you see everything except “Sangiovese” – boldly buy and try it, it’s “super” wine.
Well, the producers of Bolgheri did a great job. They received a higher status – DOC. Moreover, in 2013, Bolgheri Sassicaia was separated into its subzone, Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC, and now it strives to obtain DOCG.
The price tag for Sassicaia wines for young vintages starts from $150 and reaches several thousand.
In general, “Super Tuscans” these days can be 100% Sangiovese or a blend of Merlot and Cabernet or Syrah. There are no rules. That’s the charm: guys make wines, metaphorically, “without rules.” The main thing is the final wine’s unique taste, from fruity Sangiovese to full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon or Syrah with spices after aging in barrels.
In general, I arrived in Bolgheri. My journey started spontaneously; I didn’t think about ProWein in Dusseldorf, and most winemakers immediately told me in emails: “We are absent; we do not invite for tastings or visits.”
According to the plan, I only had one day, and I didn’t want to miss such an opportunity. I just arrived and started cycling through the romantic hills of Tuscany, enjoying the sunny day.
I had allocated time for this region from sunrise to sunset and decided to explore it thoroughly. I started a bike tour in Cecina, through Montescudaio, and then to Bibbona. From there, it was just a stone’s throw from the town of Bolgheri. There were periodic wineries along the way, but all were closed or only accepted visitors with a prior appointment.
I strolled through the town and rejoiced in a glass of local (of course!) wine and homemade Pappardella al Cinghiale (pasta with wild boar sauce). It’s my first Italian pasta!
Ristorante Bolgheri Piu is a genuine Italian countryside restaurant. In this Osteria, regulars come not just to eat but to chat. Oddly enough, the owner, Davide, isn’t even Italian. A man from Iran found his place in the Italian countryside. As people say, it’s a “cozy” place. Wine bottles are everywhere, and there are cheerful guests and friendly owners. Oh yes, they produce delicious food and their own wine and olive oil
After resting from my bike ride, I headed to the main “street” of this region—Strada del Vino, the wine route. There wasn’t much point since everything was closed anyway.
Deciding to walk a bit through (which I shouldn’t have done; it’s private property) the open gates of the Ornellaia estate (Tenuta dell’Ornellaia), a girl said, “I’m not responsible for tastings, sorry,” and asked me to leave, suggesting that I return in a couple of days. But alas, the time did not wait, so I had to decline.
But I had to taste some wines! Okay, I went to the nearest place with wine on tap. Hmm, a beautiful establishment, Osteria Magona, with a sticker “Listed in the Michelin Guide.” It’s a wine mecca; logically, they should offer wine!.
“Hello, could you arrange a wine tasting? I’m a wine blogger from Belarus,” I asked and got in response:
“From Belarus? Let’s switch to our language then,” said Oksana, from Ukraine, who’s been living here for 10 years, and it was nice to chat in a relaxed atmosphere in native language for the first time in a month.
Osteria Magona offers a vast selection of dishes, meat snacks, grilled meat, and, of course, wine. Its enormous wine list is dedicated to all of Italy, especially Bolgheri wines.
For the tasting, you choose the wines yourself, purchasing a card for a machine like this (quite popular in Europe). You can select a portion of 50ml, 100ml, or 150ml. All wines are priced differently. You may want something bigger, or something smaller, so you top up the card and pour the wine. At the end of the “event,” they refund the balance from the card.
Let’s go. Four samples and a snack. Sorry, I won’t mention the prices; I was offered all this for free, and the owner was too optimistic and kind. At moments like these, you feel the difference between Europe and the “Sovok,” no offense.
From right to left: the second wine from Ornellaia, Serre Nuove, 2014, and the second from San Guido, Guidalberto, 2015, legends of the local lands. Then, two wines from the not-so-famous but equally high-quality Tenuta Di Vaira – Bolgheri DOC Rosso Caccia al Palazzo, 2016, and Bolgherese Rosso Superiore DOC, 2015.
It was fantastic to taste the grand ones. But, regarding taste sensations, the wines from Vaira seemed more complex and richer and had a more exciting aftertaste.
But that’s my experience, my “palate,” I dare not impose my opinion. Come, taste, and let’s continue the discussion on this topic.
After a little more chit-chat with Oksana about wines and Italian life, I’m back on my Swiss bike, hurrying to catch the train. But these are just trifles; after all, I’ve been to Bolgheri, another tick in life.
At 16:00, I waited a few minutes and got on the train, which runs every hour and a half. Lucky me!
That’s the end of my wine cultural program, and I’m off to find a place for my wild camping in a tent at the foot of Montalcino.
Also, I was planning to spend the night on the island of Elba and try their famous DOCG Elba Aleatico Passito; I was even invited. But the ferry costs at least 50 euros round trip. I thought it was not worth it. There will be plenty of wine this month. Although the Earth is round, who knows? It may bring me to that corner of the Earth again.
